Hap's Diary

August 18, 1962
Bus to New York—taxi to terminal, then downtown with Clarence Pegues. Flew home…Bed felt good.

August 31, 1962
Went to Knoxville, flew to New York and stayed overnight at Great Northern.

September 1, 1962
Saturday. Awoke at 5—waited hours for bus. At Idlewild, plane taxied, returned to check engine. Off at 10 a.m. Sat with Char, over oceans and time zones. Realization of distance not yet at its full import. Watch advanced five hours.

September 2, 1962
Sunday morning: Arrived at Lisbon 3:15 a.m. their time, refueled, off again…Slept until 8:10 a.m. Breakfast view—African coastline on the left, ocean on the right. Landed at Dakar airport for a break as French-speaking PCVs disembarked. On to Sierra Leone. Ate fruit, rode bus and ferry to Freetown. Room at Fourah Bay College.

September 3, 1962
Shots and formal greeting in the morning. Rains. Afternoon went shopping—bought radio, sandals, soap, umbrella, paste and envelopes. Evening: saw film.

September 6, 1962
Went shopping & had picture taken for international drivers license – 6 shillings. Bought pots, pans, hot iron, etc. Rode back with Adams, went to party at Country Director Walter Carrington’s. Talked with Billie Day, Peace Corps staff Dr. Guise’s wife, and Stella. Sang “If I Had a Hammer,” “Where Have All the Flowers Gone,” “When I First Came to this Land,” “This Land is My Land,” “Michael, Row Your Boat Ashore,” and other Peace Corps project songs. Debated religion a long time with Marvin Hanson. Asked Mary Mullin for a date Saturday night; liked her ideas.

September7, 1962
Went to Whitbeck wedding & reception. Talked with Dave Rieder about past incidents—long laugh.

September 9, 1962
Went with Mary Mullin and group to movie. Empathetic and humorous audience reactions makes movie-going as fun as with a college crowd. Line “The red and white man must learn to live together” got big applause. Ridiculously enjoyable U.S. films. Taxi driver charged us 10 shillings to college.

September 10, 1962
Thirteen of us at breakfast—the others had left. Packed and went on lorry with Sierra Leoneans. Stopped often, took riders, ran out of gas 7 miles short of Port Loko.

October 6, 1962
Freetown—Woke up to a breakfast with actual eggs. Bruce, luckily, had the Jeep and took Clarence and me to town for groceries. At Kingsway were George Lavell, Jim Murphy, Caroline Brown, Jane Hickman, Rufus Stevenson, Loren Jenkins, Bruce Gilbert, Billie Dale, Carole Zavarol, Sue Sadow, Gary Shulze, the Berrys, Leilani Marsh, and others.

October 22, 1962
U.S. in stir over Cuba—couldn’t get presidential speech on short wave.

October 23, 1962
Talked with pupils about US-USSR conflict. Night—driver ants attacked our 8 chickens. We tore the fence down, threw the chicken house over the fence, got chickens out one by one and sprayed them…

December 24, 1962
Bruce Gilbert, Jerry Davis, Bob Rawson, Kyle Ogden and I saw Ray Smith off at wharf.

November 16, 1962
To Makeni [soccer matches]. On side of lorry, students chalked a crest for Schlenker Secondary School with “Cambridge of the North” on it… Got off at Jim Murphy/Jim Lavell’s after seeing St. Francis School.

November 17, 1962
To Magburka. Lorry ride hellishly rough. Got off at Alan Beale’s and Thomas Gihiring’s place. Cleaned up, rested, then played Hearts with Tom and Al…Rode lorry to Teachers’ Training College. Real good game at 2-2. Spectators fervent. Thence to Bert’s for cheese, Coke, and groundnuts; to Tom’s and Al’s for supper of stew. Then went to nurses for a conversation party.

December 2, 1962
Rufus came in [to Port Loko] from Freetown…

1963

Jan. 19, 1963
Prosch and Benanti came in during breakfast. We waited at the road until 1:10 for a lorry. Caught a minibus. Many stops. In Freetown, caught bus to prison, then walked to Kyle’s place at 129 Pademba Road. Kyle got up, took me to leave note with Mrs. Carrington to ask Mike McCone to get me to a doctor. Stopped at Zavarol’s. Steak supper with Kyle, Christopher and Andrew. McCone came by and I saw [a Sierra Leonean doctor]. Thence to City Hotel for Coke with Andrew. Mike McCone came by…

Jan. 20, 1963
Christopher Roper drove me to PC office for lorry at 9:30. By 10 a.m., no lorry. Walked and taxied to the lorry park on Fourah Bay Road… Lorry messing around, off at 11. Long pause at Mile 47 junction…After five hours, arrived (home).

Jan. 22, 1963
[To Bo for track meet] Loaded onto lorry with 23 boys and Ken [Wylie of SL I group]. Stopped at Mile 47, again at ferry. Good lorry driver – dusty road. Let boys off at Bo Government School, then went to [place of] Paul Chantrey, Murray Sterns, Al McIvor and Rex Jarrell. Went to Cold Storage; bought apples and film. Dave Williams with mongoose. Dan Kyle came in on train with his team. Tony Russell in. Ate rice supper. The Hausa trader came in; I bought a hat and gown. Went to Bob Golding’s for a minute—he came up later while boys played Hearts. Froelick in.

Jan. 23, 1963
Wednesday of the track meet…Mongoose got under the net with me; couldn’t sleep, dogs barked, a few driver ants in the kitchen… Al played bagpipes.

Jan. 25, 1963
…Went to Jerry Davis’ party…

Jan. 26, 1963
Drove Jeep back from CTC field after Murray got off. Walked to CTC with Rex. Hot, sticky…Afterward, Bo school chanted and rioted against Queen of Holy Rosary School, stoned convent.

Jan. 27, 1963
Dan Kyle drove us to Bo Government School… I told lorry driver to go by Mile 47 rather than Makeni. Got out at Mile 47 and taxied to Freetown –fast—for only 7 shillings. Read at Kyle’s and talked of Kyle’s trip to Spain and Christopher’s plans to go to Timbuktu. Kyle, Tony, and Al went to Paramount Hotel for supper. Christopher and I went to movie (Gregory Peck’s “Night People”)…

Feb. 7, 1963
Had [census training] conferences in small room at co-op office. Had Cokes at City Hotel for lunch with George [Dewan, SL I, who later married our Mary Reed], Bill Prosch and Otto. After afternoon conference got haircut at Henry Duck’s and bought some groceries at Kingsway…Prosch and Benanti came over. I read a story on Robert Frost, who recently died.

Feb. 8, 1963
…At 4:30 p.m. went to house. Jerry Mills & Bruce there. Got into palaver about the moral choice of health. Sue Sadow talked about European travel. To Tropicana with Prosch and Benanti; Ken Wylie joined us for movie, “The Enemy Below.”

Feb. 9, 1963
Freetown. Saturday. Talked to Jerry; went shopping. Taxi back with Bob Gross and George. To beach. Much sun. Supper at Gross’s—to Myrna’s for conversation with Tom Torrell… a very sensitive person; he should be a strong writer eventually.

Feb. 12, 1963
Last census session in the morning… Saw John Weinberg—drove with him in police Land Rover to pick up Mike Woldenberg and to pool [where we were teaching kids and police officers how to swim during the school break]. Instructed policewomen and beginners—swam laps with Mike. Felt good.

Feb. 13, 1963
Wednesday. Census Land Rover came at 9:30—was expecting them at noon. Found Ken and George at PZ’s [sometimes written in diary phonetically as P-Zed’s]. Rufus, Mary Lou Rogers-Wright and Jay Friedman, en route to Guinea, stopped in for the night.

Feb. 25, 1963
Went to the opening of a road [by Port Loko’s rural development PCV team, connecting a remote village to a main road.] Primary kids sang anthem. D.O. [District Officer] said, “The Peace Corps has shown it wants to be friends, and get little chop money when  they can get more chop money in the States.” People applauded. Took pictures with the chief, Alikali Modu III. People scrambled for drinks.

Feb. 27, 1963
Another lost day [in the diary], I guess—maybe this was when we went to Freetown. Doesn’t matter. We didn’t know what day it was then either.

April 13, 1963
Went to Freetown…Saw Mary Reed in front of  PC office—said conference had been full of petty gripes. Benanti & Prosch screwed by D.O. in Kambia—no transportation…To Walter’s. Said Shriver was coming on Monday. Would we meet him at  Lungi Airport?

April 15, 1963
…To airport. Jerry Davis waiting to leave for home. Ambassador Carnahan and I talked about PC and students. Plane came in and I took 2 Polaroids, then was introduced to Sargent Shriver, Information Serviceman Max Yett (Tennessee), and another. Stood around… Followed in [census] Land-Rover to ferry. Got in launch, up front, talked with airmen [pilots]. Shriver came up front with Mike—talked of Congressional Record. I talked to him about settlement [?], and near end of trip we were discussing some of the morale conditions of volunteers. I got off at King Harman Road. Bill Graham and Jack Johnston were at home—thanked me for Arabic tablet [I had bought for them]… To Walter’s. Wandered about, talked with Shriver, Billie Day [and two rural development PCVs]. Inside Shriver discussed overall picture, 2% dropout; was following cue a bit. Asked him about his plans—gathered he would be resigning when first batch came home. Quit bull session at 1:30 a.m. Teresa Guise cutting up outside…

April 16, 1963
Hungry. Bought some mangoes down the road. Graham came in, so I borrowed his Jeep to go to the Post Office…

April 17, 1963
Packed and left for Port Loko in back of Land Rover…Messed around waiting for Shriver. Benanti and Prosch came in; listened to “Nightwatchman on Religion” tape…Mike McCone rushed in and we busted out to grass airstrip. Shriver came and we talked and took pictures. He thanked me for the tips and I said I thought everything would be OK…

May 10, 1963
Had to leave for Freetown at 12:30 to take Form 3 exams in before 3 p.m.. Did grocery shopping at  PZ’s. Went to Bob Gross’s to stay. Drank squash on porch. Rufus stopped by—returned from his brother’s funeral in admirable fashion. Char, Bill Whitten, Jon Klever, Gary Sandison, and Burke Casari came in. Heard [two PCV’s] talking about leaving.

May 11, 1963
Slept late at Hoppy’s… Went downtown with Murray Stern and Burke. I was concerned about potential departures. Mike McCone was teed-off at me for saying, “We have to do something.” I went to Walter and talked with him and Bob Gross for a few hours… I told [a PCV] ,“Stay—please!” [That person stayed.]

June 8, 1963
…Went to the beach with Erick Lorenz, Tom Birnberg, Stella Ferguson and Ann McLaughlin—swam out with Steve Burgess. Cloudy. Drove to Palm Beach Club for Cokes.
July 11, 1963
In Freetown, unloaded all my stuff at the [U.S.] government rest house [also referred to as the hostel]; took Clarence to Rufus’s—Al Arkley there. Told Char I’d see her at PC office the next day.

July 12, 1963
Prosch and I took the Port Loko Jeep to Toufic’s…Met Char at USIS. Talked over swimming program [where some of us were instructors during summer.]

July 16, 1963
Afternoon—went to Tony & Maureen’s wedding—bare Catholic Church. Reception at McCone’s place… At night talked with Bruce Pearson & Mary Reed about Peace Corps volunteers.

July 19, 1963
Joe Bass in office—got him to go with me to Toufics [PC-authorized service and repair shop] but our Jeep wasn’t ready as promised it would be. At Centre, Prosch had Simms’ Jeep—went out to pool. Prosch had beginners and I others—good session. Six left early with Bill. Rained on return. Picked up Lorenz at PC office, but even at 5:30 Jeep not ready. Got Jeep for another day from Rusk. Bill, Erick and I went to see “The Sun Also Rises.”

July 20, 1963
Caroline left for Liberia… Picked up Prosch at City Hotel… Waited at Toufic’s for Jeep—then found out clutch hadn’t been fixed. At government rest house  all afternoon…

July 28, 1963
In the morning picked up Joe Bass, Rufus Stevenson and Judy Salisbury to take Joe and Rufus to Queen Elizabeth II Quay to board the “Accra.” Walked around the boat and sat in one of the "parlours" until 12:30, then left.

August 1, 1963
Medium-sized group at the swimming class. Went to Mike’s and he told me Dave Williams had to work in Pujehun—therefore, swimming program collapsed.

August 3, 1963
Took Prosch to POW school for law exams…  Took Anne McLaughlin up to Jenny Barwood’s at 36 Hill Station, but not at home…Backed to Hill Station—Barwood asked if I wanted to see her chameleon, and I really liked that—it picked me up.

August 5, 1963
On the third floor balcony of the hostel I took out my Polaroid camera to photograph a “devil” leading a secret society group celebration on the sidewalk. They stormed up the stairs; one grabbed my leg, another my camera. I gave them the film and they ran out. Detectives and police rushed up... Policeman asked me not to tell President Kennedy. I said I wouldn’t.

September 3, 1962
Around noon took a Jeep truck to the ferry (Kissy) to meet the new group, which was one ferry late.

September 7, 1963
Took large load of new PCVs to Rufus’s and the beach…Had drinks at the Palm Beach Club plus good discussion of bush life here. Returned them, showered and dressed for dance. After Coke at Lebanese restaurant with Erick, Clarence, and Kevin, went to dance at St. Edwards.

September 14, 1963
Went to Jim Murphy’s; felt good to be welcome. Bedded at home of Lou Flowers, Regional Secretary.

November 10, 1963
Left Freetown hostel… Stopped at Jerry Mills’ and Bill Anderson’s place outside Waterloo for coffee and a round of Johnny Mathis on the way to Loko.

November 22, 1963
…He’s dead.  My God, the fools…

December 25, 1963
To beach with Bill Whitten, short swim, long walk. Back, Erick taking Jeep to government rest house, so Joe Bass and I ate steak at Tropicana, talking about his headmaster and France.

1964

January 3, 1964
Drove to Freetown in cool dusty morning… told Bill Graham he took damn good pictures and meant it.

February 1, 1964
Freetown…Got some books and groceries. Took Carole Zavarole, Char, Gynne and Paul to homes, then picked up Paul and Gynne to go swimming at beach… On way back took 2 Americans and a Nigerian to Fourah Bay College. Bathed. Picked up Paul and went to Bob Gross’s for supper. Talked with Paul Robeson, Kathy and Buck  about training.

February 2, 1964
Freetown… Bill Graham borrowed the Jeep for about 45 minutes… got groceries from Rufus

March. 8, 1964
Sunday. At 9:30 a.m., took Bill Whitten to Toufics and went to the beach with Bruce Pearson. Mike and family were there. Bruce and I walked to the rock point, talking now and then about what we would do the next year… Ate peppered chicken at the Palm Beach Club, then took Bruce’s Jeep to the hostel and drove to Dr. Guise’s for ear swaths. To hostel, packed, drove upcountry loaded…

April 3, 1964
Freetown. [SL II end-of-tour] conference began; John Boughton administered tests; I answered in a humorous vein. To beach. At night went to movie with Bob Gross and Mel Siegel (Accra).

April 4, 1964
Conference discussions, two sessions. Walked with Clara and ran at noon. Afternoon: Tony and Bernadine noted the profanity [used]; I thought about that in the evening and at the beach.  Mike’s—great party…

April 5, 1964
Sunday. Last conference—fairly quiet. Talked with Tony.

April 8, 1964
Waited for Jeep; to [Peace Corps] office and Kingsway. Picked up food, brought Chevy Apache [lent by Director Don McClure] back. Mary Reed at junction…

April 24, 1964
To Freetown , stopped at Hastings to wait for Liberian V.P. [traffic jam]. Did my shopping at PZ’s, where Prosch was. At USIS got films and some books. Took Rufus to Boyd’s and Larry’s where I saw Kevin and Larry getting ready to take USA46 [license plate for Chevy Apache] to Kalihun. Went to Rufus’s, unloaded, and washed.  Clarence and I [and a Sierra Leone III teacher] went to Palm Beach Club for peppered chicken (£1.3.0 with 2 Cokes). At theater, saw Pat Boone’s “All Hands on Deck”—a farce. Back to Rufus’s. He and Clarence went back out.

April 25, 1964
Awoke early at Rufus’s; shaved in a cup of cold water, ate a Frosted Flakes breakfast… At USIS [U.S. Information Service] taking Graduate Record exams were Bob Gross, Ursula Bitter, Jay Friedman, Bill Prosch and Bill Whitten [and I]. First two sections—vocabulary and comprehension—were fun; math section not fun. Got some apples at Kingsway for lunch and went to the Peace Corps office. Relaxed in lounge with Gross and talked about the exam and New York. For clothes[upon returning] he recommended Korvetles at 48th and 5th Avenue, and Macy’s at 34th and 7th Ave…

May 16, 1964
Saturday at hostel. Took Gross things by his place… Prosch and I to the beach. Char and I walked around. Left Prosch there.

May 17, 1964
Went to the beach alone—Len Clark and Irving there—very calm…At hostel I talked with Mary Reed. She had argued with Phil Mahly (?) and Prosch

May 30, 1964
…At Magburka Boys Government School [for national exams] we unloaded and boys went to their dorms. Anne Burdick was at Bruce’s. Steak supper. Around 9:30 we went to the hotel for a farewell party for nurses and medical teams. Danced with Anne before she left; conversed with Franz. Around 2:30 a.m. I drove with Bruce to get the cot at Dave and Marsha’s. Got one of his mattresses and used it.

May 31, 1964
Magburka. In the afternoon Al and I walked all the way out to the D.O.’s pond and tennis courts where Dave and Bruce were…Drove to Magburka Girls’ School and Anne gave us a tour—very nice and modern. Back—supper and sat outside on the wall talking politics.

June 1, 1964
Invigilated some exams with Bruce, etc., after talking with the very soft-spoken principal. That evening we went out to Guy Revis’s and Ann McLaughlin’s for a spaghetti supper. Nice atmosphere. Night bugs on the floor. Drove then to Dave & Marsha’s where Bruce talked about taking seven days for the medical exams and we got a laugh out of “bringing the stool specimens in hard.”

June 2, 1964
Magburka—Tuesday—sat in on 3 sets of long examinations…After the exams, Al and I went to the court to rather tiredly shoot some ball.

June 4, 1964
Magburka— Had two sets of exams to invigilate. Afterward went with Al to shoot basketball with a bunch of little kids… Bruce went to Freetown with Franz, Jane, Ann and Stella. Rice chop for supper—sat talking with Al about training and teaching until it was dark…

June 6, 1964
Freetown—Got a dental appointment and basic check at Guise’s. Saw movie “It Started in Naples” with Clara.
June 8, 1964
Too cloudy for any good swimming, but took Sherwood’s Jeep anyway. Talked with Sherwood about Poro, etc.
June 12, 1964
Freetown—Did some swimming with Burgess, running with Fred Sievers, talking with Theresa. In the evening went to a party at the McCone place where Lenny Clark is.
June 13, 1964
Saturday – After a morning downtown, I went to the beach, rode back with Lenny Clark’s Land-Rover. Got Benanti to take Francis and Caroline to the McCone place to clean up and went to Palm Beach Club for chicken and to the Cape Lighthouse to watch the sunset.
July 9, 1964
Thursday—Tour of duty completed.